The Advocate’s food staff featured this simple and tasty squash dish in the 1999 Food Focus Encore booklet “New Century Celebrations.” Use the recipe now but keep it handy because it’s a good one to serve during the holidays, which are just around the corner.

A small square of this is delicious with grilled chicken or fish. Tender, young yellow squash is available year around.

“Au gratin” is a French phrase referring to food that is topped with grated cheese or bread crumbs and butter and baked.

Corinne Cook is a columnist for The Advocate. Reach her at food@theadvocate.com.