At some point, the Supreme Hibachi Buffet on Coursey near Sherwood will cease to be referred to as being in the “old Ryan’s” restaurant building. But, in the meantime, it’s a helpful landmark reference.

What will help Supreme Hibachi become a landmark on its own is the way it’s put its own stamp on the place, from the darkly finished doors to new red trim on the outside, to a nicely redone inside.

Expecting to find a still recognizable, glossed-over former Ryan’s, we didn’t.

Instead, the place was a spacious, well-lit, uncluttered space with a wide swathe of the center devoted to seven gleaming steam tables and cold-food tables.

At one end of the room was a chef preparing fresh sushi and at the other end was a chef at the hibachi station, prepared to grill chicken, beef or eggs, with assorted chopped vegetables ready, at the customer’s request.

We found a wide assortment of buffet items.

At the salad table, for instance, in addition to items like the salad greens kept fresh in iced water, there were iced-down boiled shrimp and oysters on the half shell.

The seafood table offered boiled crabs — along with the necessary crab-cracking tools — and boiled crawfish and shrimp.

The dessert table, loaded with sweets, also presented the entertaining spectacle of a chocolate fountain, with marshmallows nearby waiting to be skewered and covered with chocolate.

All of the food looked fresh and mouth-watering.

A buffet wouldn’t seem to be the best setting for sushi, which demands freshness, but the ongoing preparation of it, on the spot, seemed to scratch that concern off the list.

There were about 12 different types of sushi rolls available that evening and several types of sashini, slivers of thin, fresh seafood — such as salmon, snapper and artificial crab — resting daintily on small portions of rice.

We would have appreciated descriptions of the different sushi, posted over the counter where they were served, but the strongest sushi fan among us knew the Philadelphia roll when he had it and pronounced the sushi, made with salmon, cream cheese and cucumber, “solid.”

In fact, we found all the sushi we tried to have a consistent, good quality.

We had more pluses than minuses on the items we tried.

Getting a thumbs up were the vegetables like roasted potatoes, crisp green beans and plump mushrooms and side dishes including fried rice.

We also liked the Japanese dish teriyaki, grilled chicken with a soy sauce, served on a stick, as well as a number of other Chinese — or Americanized Chinese — dishes, like the sweet and tender, fried “honey chicken” and the mildly spicy, deep-fried General Tso chicken.

And it seems that restaurants can’t mess up delicious crab rangoon, deep-fried dumplings filled with cream cheese and bits of crab meat or artificial crab meat.

The grilled salmon I had, topped with a sweet, orange sauce, was a little dry, and the guest who had stuffed crab said it had a fishy flavor she didn’t quite take to.

But, overall, the Supreme Hibachi Buffet was a good experience, with a friendly wait staff, and with the wide variety of new items to try on future visits, it’s a nice addition for dining-out choices.

The lunchtime buffet costs $6.89, during the week, with a price of $3.99 for children ages 4 to 6 and $4.99 for children 7 to 11. Children under the age of 3 eat free, at any time.

The dinner buffet is $9.99, again with a different break-out for little ones: $4.99 for those 4 to 6 and $5.99 for children 7 to 11.

The buffet price on Sundays, for adults, is $9.99 throughout the day, again, with lower prices for children.