Peel-&-Eat Shrimp with Green Chile Butter

Serves 4 to 6. Recipe is excerpted from “Just Cook It!” Justin Chapple writes, “I have some issues with shrimp. I find them just too easy to overcook, seizing up and becoming chewy and tough. I prefer my shrimp to be juicy and tender, with no chewy brown bits. All this explains why I have a thing for peel-and-eat shrimp. They might be a little messy to eat, but cooking them in the shell helps protect their delicate texture. I split the shrimp along the back to remove the veins and spread them with a green chile butter before roasting them in the oven. They’re done when they’re steamy and just white throughout.”

6 tablespoons (¾ stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature or softened in the microwave

2 medium jalapeños or serrano chiles, seeded and minced

2 tablespoons minced fresh chives

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1½ pounds shell-on extra-large shrimp

Lemon wedges, for serving

1. Preheat the oven to 475 F.

2. In a small bowl, using a fork, blend the butter, jalapeños, chives, lemon zest, and a generous pinch each of salt and pepper.

3. Using the tip of a pair of scissors, cut along the back of the shrimp through the shell, leaving the shell intact. Using a small knife, remove and discard the vein. Using a small spoon or table knife, spread the green chile butter on the exposed shrimp and under the shell. Refrigerate for 15 minutes.

4. Spread the shrimp in an even layer on a large rimmed baking sheet and season with salt and pepper. Roast for 10 to 15 minutes, until the shrimp are just cooked through; flip the shrimp halfway through cooking. Let cool slightly, then serve with lemon wedges.

Do it ahead: The green chile butter can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Bring to room temperature before using.