A late night over a hot stove in his kitchen at the Bourbon House did nothing to dampen Darin Nesbit’s enthusiasm for a dawn trip to seafood heaven.

“I can instantly tell the difference between Gulf seafood and others’,” he said. “It’s the salinity in the oysters. The shrimp come from farther out in the water, and they taste sweeter; the crabs are fat and rich. You can’t get this stuff anywhere else. As a chef, to get the product directly from the harvesters is my goal.”

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