WILDCARD

Better Than Feta Waffle

Waffles on Maple

7712 Maple St., (504) 304-2662; wafflesonmaple.com

In case the name didn’t make things clear enough, the facade of this counter-service café by the Uptown universities announces its theme with a waffle-inspired design. What might be less obvious is how the waffles here serve double duty as savory snacks or light lunch, as well as breakfast and dessert. The shop’s Better Than Feta ($7.99) demonstrates this with the red of sun-dried tomatoes, the white of ricotta and feta and the green of fresh basil. Assembled hot off the iron, the cheese melts a little between the malty ridges and pockets for an effect something like a waffle pizza.

UPSCALE

Pork Milanese

Sylvain

625 Chartres St., (504) 265-8123; sylvainnola.com

Sylvain’s are developing another restaurant called Manor on Magazine, which they hope to open by year’s end. In the meantime, Sylvain chef Alex Harrell is working on possible menu items, so some new dishes are making the rounds here and along the way boosting the menu from gastropub to something closer to bistro fare. For instance, this pork Milanese ($24) arrives as tender, crisply-coated cutlets over a base of dark, chewy farro mixed with moist bursts of corn. A smoky/sweet tomato vinaigrette brings a tangy touch and a scattering of soft pea shoots and radish adds fresh vegetal crunch. If it’s representative of what the chef will serve at Manor on Magazine, count me as one excited for what’s to come.

CASUAL

Fried Chicken Platter

Fury’s Restaurant

724 Martin Behrman Ave., Metairie, (504) 834-5646; furysrestaurant.com

This small, family-run restaurant is not as colorful as others cut from a similar cloth and it’s easy to overlook. That’s a mistake. To revisit is to be reminded of how good the staples of the New Orleans neighborhood-style café can be, especially when expert frying is in evidence. Get a bowl of gumbo awash with okra and crab to tide you over until the fried chicken platter ($12 quarter/$14.50 half) arrives. It takes a while, which is a good sign, one indicating fried-to-order chicken. By the time you get to the last piece, it will still be hot under its tawny coating.

Follow Ian McNulty on Twitter @IanMcNultyNOLA.