Del Fuego Taqueria

4518 Magazine St., (504) 309-5797; delfuegotaqueria.com

New taquerias these days may brag on how many tequilas they keep on hand, and Del Fuego has a wall of them. The more impressive count here, however, is the array of salsas the kitchen prepares (seven recently), which points to a kitchen serious about the fundamentals of regional Mexican flavors. The menu answers some baseline cravings with fat burritos and bubbly cheese and chorizo dips. Delve deeper for chicken tinga enchiladas under a poblano cream sauce, seared fish with roasted garlic and lime and chilled seafood that can be as refreshing as a margarita. While the narrow dining room can get raucous, the outdoor patios (front and back) are prime seating in nice weather. Lunch and dinner Mon.-Sat. $$

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Advocate staff photo by SCOTT THRELKELD -- Nestor Aguirre, left, Raul Puga and Joel Hernandez of Los Aces de Alabama perform at Taqueria Chilangos in Kenner.

Taqueria Chilangos

2723 Roosevelt Blvd., (504) 469-5599

A Chilango is what a guy from Mexico City might call himself, and such a Chilango would likely recognize much of the menu at this taqueria, which was part of the first wave of traditional Mexican eateries to crop up here in the wake of Hurricane Katrina. There are tacos and fajitas and such, but also pork ribs and rotisserie chicken for huge Mexican-style barbecue platters (with tortillas of course), marinated seafood salads teaming with octopus and oysters and weekend-only specials like the lamb shank with broth and cactus salad. Chips with incendiary salsa are free, margaritas or giant bottles of Corona are essential. Lunch and dinner daily. $

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