Doris Metropolitan

620 Chartres St., (504) 267-3500; dorismetropolitan.com

There is no mistaking the fixation of this stylish, contemporary French Quarter restaurant. It is beef, dry aged, prepared reverentially and, if you order the most rarified cuts, priced through the roof. But Doris filters the steakhouse concept through a thoroughly modern, Mediterranean lens and pairs it with bistro-worthy seafood and vegetable dishes that deserve a look on their own merits. The approach is unique, the flavors are compelling and the style is distinctive. You can feel like you've escaped New Orleans while dining right in the heart of it. The wine list and cocktails are excellent. Dinner nightly, lunch Fri.-Sun. $$$$$

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Advocate Photo by VERONICA DOMINACH -- A variety of chimichurri and other sauces at La Boca, an Argentine-style steakhouse in New Orleans.

La Boca

870 Tchoupitoulas St., (504) 525-8205; labocasteaks.com

The Argentine way with steak is on display at this darkly seductive, refreshingly straightforward Warehouse District den. The difference La Boca brings to the primal craving for steak goes beyond the unconventional South American cuts of solomillo or entraña con piel (with a crispy “skin”). Many of the steaks are grilled slow, over low temperature, bringing a depth of flavor. It can be an adventurous alternative to the familiar American steakhouse or the go-to choice for those who have developed a taste for this style. Appetizers of char-marked sweetbreads, bubbling provolone and empanadas and the bar’s deep list of Malbec, Scotch and amari are strong supporting acts. Dinner Mon.-Sat., late-night Thu.-Sat. $$$$

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Staff photo by Ian McNulty - A sizzling strip steak at Mr. John's Steakhouse in New Orleans.

Mr. John’s Steakhouse

2111 St. Charles Ave., (504) 679-7697; mrjohnssteakhouse.com

New Orleans has its own style of steakhouse, marked first by the sound and aroma of beef in sizzling butter. Mr. John’s has this down pat. Desi Vega, one of the partners here, learned the business from the best – Ruth Fertel, of the locally-launched Ruth’s Chris chain. Many of the finer points that won Fertel so many fans in the early days are reprised here. A handful of Italian dishes and some local Creole standbys (like the BBQ shrimp, or the shrimp remoualde) expand the range a bit, but the steak is the one true reason to come here and it never disappoints. Lunch Fri., dinner Tue.-Sat. $$$$$

Follow Ian McNulty on Twitter, @IanMcNultyNOLA.