Bevi Seafood Co.

236 N. Carrollton Ave., (504) 488-7503; 4701 Airline Drive, Metairie, (504) 885-5003; beviseafoodco.com

Bevi is a newer name in an old game, and these two shops strike a careful balance. They taste like home and they feel modern, and that's a good combo. There’s boiled seafood and straight-up po-boys but also an oyster loaf with pastrami bacon and smoked gouda, local brews on tap and a blackboard with head-turning specials (a po-boy of fried chicken skins, griddled halloumi cheese and mint). Put that next to stuffed artichokes and a hearty, deep-dark gumbo and what you get isn’t a sweeping reinvention but a loving reinvigoration of the old seafood joint with some of the next generation’s ideas and obsessions. Hours vary by location. $

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Advocate staff photo by Ian McNulty - At Frankie & Johnny's, the oyster nachos are prepared with pico de gallo and spicy remoulade.

Frankie & Johnny’s Restaurant

321 Arabella St., (504) 243-1234; frankieandjohnnys.net

Frankie & Johnny's seemed like a place stuck in time, with a history reaching back to the 1940s, the basement ambiance of a VFW hall and a juke box to match. But times have indeed changed here, as a succession of new owners have rolled through in the past few years. It feels on an even keel now, however, with the fundamentals that made it the Uptown boiled seafood destination still in place and a noticeable bump in quality and variety on the plate. It’s still a place to fill a long table and get to peeling, though now with raw oysters in rotation, better beer on tap and more specials that go beyond the staple plate lunches. Lunch and dinner daily. $$

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Advocate staff photo by Ian McNulty - A modern tuna po-boy from Seither's Seafood.

Seither’s Seafood

279 Hickory St., Harahan, (504) 738-1116; seithersseafood.com

Anyone with a taste for traditional New Orleans food will recognize the framework of Seither’s Seafood. The boiling room is the beating heart, and po-boys are the draw for quick lunches. But owner Jason Seither has progressively remade his tucked-away Harahan eatery with creative, even eye-popping dishes running alongside the usual options. This can include elements of both the Tex-Mex taqueria and sushi bar in the same dish (a spicy “taco salad” of soft shell crab and shrimp remoulade) or the seared (and mostly raw) tuna “volcano” heaped with crab stick and dotted with Sriracha. It’s come-as-you-are casual and adds a big dose of fun to the standard seafood joint. The attached oyster bar is usually rollicking and always welcoming. Lunch Tue.-Fri., dinner Tue.-Sat. $$

Follow Ian McNulty on Twitter, @IanMcNultyNOLA.