National Pie Day (decreed by whatever calendar social directors decide such things) was Jan. 23, and Bon Appetit published a personal essay about Hubig's Pies by New Orleans transplant (and de-transplant) Sophie Lucido Johnson, who also illustrated her story charmingly.

  But Johnson's essay and drawings are as much about preconceptions as they are about fried hand pies:

  "I had been wrong about New Orleans, by the way. For one thing, white out-of-towners like me (and including me) typically did more harm than good to the community. We gentrified neighborhoods where families had lived for generations, and we imposed our values without seeking the input of local New Orleanians. Despite the fact that my motives had been damagingly ignorant, people in New Orleans showed me nothing but kindness and warmth. Neighbors sat for hours chatting on the porch, telling me stories about their lives. There were parades in the streets literally every week. The people of the city belonged to each other; they cared for each other; and they celebrated each other.

  "And Hubig's Pies seemed, too, to belong solely to the New Orleans community. Tourists gobbled up beignets and king cakes, but no one who ever came from out of town to visit asked to eat a Hubig's pie."